Waioka is a riverbed of tall white rock and broken boulders, cutting away into a cliff overlooking a large pool by the ocean. The waterfall only runs after hard rain, leaving warm basins of green water in the dips and cracks. Young people leap from the edge of the cliff into the brackish water, their families shouting abusive encouragement from the sidelines.
This place, only with heckling dads waving beer bottles.
Gavin jumped from the lowest rocks into the water with his friends, paddling to the edge and floating in the shallow parts with giant goggles strapped to his head. Leif and I sat on the rocks, dipping our legs into the water and watching tadpoles nibble the bubbles on our skin.
Leif slid into the pool while I mentally considered the bacterial bouquet of the stagnant water, then grinned, "Help, mom! I can't get out!" and pawed at the loose gravel helplessly, sending tadpoles fleeing. I lifted him out of the water, and he said, "Thanks, mom, you're my superhero." My kids don't often express themselves in cute clichés, but it charmed the hell out of me.
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Paia is a small tourist town with a beachy bohemian vibe; two intersecting streets lined with imports, hemp clothing, coffee shops, swimwear, and restaurants with lots of beer on tap. College kids with dreadlocks and flowing skirts walk around finding their spirits and eating gelato.
Leif and I had breakfast at an outdoor cafe, browsed shops to look at crystal jewelry, and wandered the health food store for obscure menu ingredients.
Children who go on solo excursions with their parent enjoy indulgence, and we filled the basket with organic cheesy poofs, socially responsible chocolate, and rabbit-shaped mac and cheese.
Walking around with Leif is fun, because it is like walking around with Cindel, from the Ewok movies.

Everywhere we go, people stop to squeal at him about his hair. And I puff up like a proud thing because I was SO IN LOVE with Cindel as a child, I totally understand the urge to grab fistfuls of those curls and boing them. I do it constantly - it's amazing the child has any hair left.
The local radio stations haven't had any new music since 2006. As we drove to Kahului, the radio played a string of songs on my quarantine list, like punching me in the face repeatedly. Welcome to the Black Parade. Creep. Right Here.
I didn't switch them, because old familiar heartache is a comfortable place to take refuge when a new, scary one is looming over and around you.
Black Parade played twice more before the afternoon was out, and I eyed the radio suspiciously.
Back home in the evening, my stomach rising up into my throat. I let my hair down and combed my fingers through, looking balefully at the strands lying in my hand. It's nothing, and everything.
But it was a good, sunny day with my boy, and Gavin curled up against me on the couch to watch
Farscape in the evening and read
The Search for Wondla before bed. These are the bits I pare off and eat.
This life, I tell you.